{"id":12253,"date":"2021-08-17T12:00:57","date_gmt":"2021-08-17T10:00:57","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.ladislavjakl.cz\/?p=12253"},"modified":"2021-08-17T12:00:57","modified_gmt":"2021-08-17T10:00:57","slug":"cesi-nohy-na-zemi-oci-dodaleka","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.ladislavjakl.cz\/?p=12253","title":{"rendered":"\u010ce\u0161i: Nohy na zemi, o\u010di dodaleka"},"content":{"rendered":"
Je na \u010desk\u00e9 kultu\u0159e a na\u0161em \u017eivotn\u00edm stylu v\u016fbec n\u011bco specifick\u00e9ho? Nebo je to jen primitivn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed verze rakousk\u00e9 a bavorsk\u00e9 tradice?<\/div>\n

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\u010ci snad je \u010cesko pupkem sv\u011bta, kde je v\u0161echno t\u00edm prav\u00fdm origin\u00e1lem, zat\u00edmco v\u0161ude jinde se sna\u017e\u00ed o chab\u00e9 napodobeniny? Je nam\u00edst\u011b typick\u00e9 \u010desk\u00e9 flagelantstv\u00ed (vid\u00edte, u\u017e je to tam zase, jakoby nesta\u010dilo oby\u010dejn\u00e9 \u201esebemrska\u010dstv\u00ed\u201c) nebo omezen\u00e1 nabub\u0159elost? Cizinci n\u00e1s v\u011bt\u0161inou vid\u00ed vl\u00eddn\u011bji, i kdy\u017e dosti zjednodu\u0161en\u011b. Zdrav\u00e9 j\u00e1dro \u010desk\u00e9ho c\u00edt\u011bn\u00ed je n\u011bkde uprost\u0159ed mezi ob\u011bma krajnostmi a stoj\u00ed za to se j\u00edm zab\u00fdvat.<\/p>\n

Povrchn\u00ed sv\u011bt\u00e1\u010dek, co se jak mot\u00fdl Emanuel nakrucuje, vyd\u00e1v\u00e1 na odiv sv\u016fj sv\u011btop\u0159ehled, na ostatn\u00ed krajany shl\u00ed\u017e\u00ed jako na \u010dervy u \u0161pi\u010dek sv\u00fdch bot, je sam\u00fd cit\u00e1t, odkaz a anglicismus, v ka\u017ed\u00e9 v\u011bt\u011b druh\u00fdch lid\u00ed c\u00edt\u00ed jen osl\u00ed m\u016fstek, po kter\u00e9m st\u0159elhbit\u011b p\u0159eb\u011bhne ke sv\u00fdm otravn\u00fdm z\u00e1\u017eitk\u016fm z velk\u00fdch sv\u011bt\u016f. Vyd\u011bluje se ze sv\u00e9ho n\u00e1rodn\u00edho spole\u010denstv\u00ed, proto\u017ee chce ostatn\u00edm \u0159\u00edct, \u017ee on je n\u011bco v\u00edc, \u017ee on pat\u0159\u00ed sp\u00ed\u0161e mezi ty nedosti\u017en\u00e9 vzory ze zem\u00ed za devater\u00fdmi horami a devater\u00fdmi \u0159ekami. V poctiv\u00e9 hospod\u011b v Po\u0161umav\u00ed se dom\u00e1h\u00e1 plod\u016f mo\u0159e, s\u00f3jov\u00e9ho ml\u00e9ka a osmn\u00e1ctilet\u00e9 jednosladov\u00e9 whisky z ostrova Islay a omdl\u00e9v\u00e1 p\u0159i pohledu na sprost\u00e9 \u010desk\u00e9 bor\u016fvkov\u00e9 knedl\u00edky, kubu a kaplickou cmundu.<\/p>\n

Tup\u00fd omezenec, co si rochn\u00ed ve sv\u00e9m bl\u00e1t\u00ed\u010dku, \u0161t\u00edt\u00ed se \u010dehokoli nov\u00e9ho a ciz\u00edho, nic nevyzkou\u0161\u00ed, proto\u017ee u\u017e dop\u0159edu v\u00ed, \u017ee to bude n\u011bjak\u00e1 extravagantn\u00ed blbost, mistr sv\u011bta v oboru znouzectnost, neochotn\u00fd n\u011bco posunout, zlep\u0161it a inspirovat se, proto\u017ee on to takhle m\u00e1 r\u00e1d a tak je tomu zvykl\u00fd. \u010c\u00edm \u010dast\u011bji se kolem n\u011bj m\u00edhaj\u00ed nov\u00e9 v\u016fn\u011b a barvy, t\u00edm zu\u0159iv\u011bji si buran zacp\u00e1v\u00e1 o\u010di, u\u0161i, nos i mysl. Na dovolenou (kdy\u017e u\u017e moje star\u00e1 mus\u00ed to blb\u00e9 slun\u00ed\u010dko m\u00edt) si veze lahv\u00e1\u010de toho zaru\u010den\u011b jedin\u00e9ho piva, kter\u00e9 je ochoten p\u00edt.<\/p>\n

Fakt pat\u0159\u00ed v\u0161ichni \u010ce\u0161i do jedn\u00e9 z t\u011bchto skupin? Jsem si jist, \u017ee nikoli. V\u011bt\u0161ina poctiv\u011b stoj\u00ed pevn\u00fdma nohama na sv\u00e9 p\u016fd\u011b a naho\u0159e ot\u00e1\u010d\u00ed hlavou tam, kde by bylo mo\u017en\u00e9 n\u011bco zaj\u00edmav\u00e9ho odkoukat, zkusit, nau\u010dit se. Jasn\u011b, ka\u017ed\u00fd z n\u00e1s mus\u00ed \u010das od \u010dasu \u010delit svod\u016fm mal\u00fdch \u010dert\u00edk\u016f, kte\u0159\u00ed n\u00e1s cht\u011bj\u00ed zat\u00e1hnout do prvn\u00edho nebo do druh\u00e9ho extr\u00e9mu. A ob\u010das i na chv\u00edli podlehneme, dokud si v\u010das neuv\u011bdom\u00edme vlastn\u00ed trapnost, dokud nenajdeme sebev\u011bdom\u00ed ve schopnosti dr\u017eet to lep\u0161\u00ed z dom\u00e1c\u00edho a inspirovat se v\u0161\u00edm, co by p\u0159i vhodn\u00e9m uchopen\u00ed mohlo b\u00fdt kompatibiln\u00ed a komplement\u00e1rn\u00ed s dom\u00e1c\u00ed tradic\u00ed, \u0159e\u010deno sv\u011bt\u00e1cky. \u010cesky se to \u0159ekne \u201eco by ladilo s t\u00edm na\u0161\u00edm a co by ho mohlo doplnit\u201c.<\/p>\n

T\u00fdk\u00e1 se to \u00fapln\u011b v\u0161eho, v\u0161ech str\u00e1nek fenom\u00e9nu, pro kter\u00fd se u\u017e\u00edv\u00e1 souhrnn\u00fd pojem \u201e\u017eivotn\u00ed styl.\u201c Ale \u00fapln\u011b nejv\u00edc to v\u0161e plat\u00ed o stolov\u00e1n\u00ed, o j\u00eddle, o pit\u00ed, o va\u0159en\u00ed, o konzumaci, o ochutn\u00e1v\u00e1n\u00ed a vychutn\u00e1v\u00e1n\u00ed, o u\u017eit\u00ed si dobrot \u017eivota.<\/p>\n

P\u0159edev\u0161\u00edm je nutno \u0159\u00edci, \u017ee \u010desk\u00e9 \u017eeny i \u010de\u0161t\u00ed mu\u017eov\u00e9 doma tref\u00ed do kuchyn\u011b a dokonce v\u011bd\u00ed, k \u010demu ta r\u016fzn\u00e1 za\u0159\u00edzen\u00ed jsou a jak funguj\u00ed. To ve sv\u011bt\u011b v\u016fbec nen\u00ed samoz\u0159ejm\u00e9. B\u011b\u017en\u00e1 americk\u00e1 \u010di anglick\u00e1 pa\u0148m\u00e1ma um\u00ed tak maxim\u00e1ln\u011b oh\u0159\u00e1t v mikrovlnce cosi ze supermarketu (a je t\u0159eba dodat, \u017ee je to mo\u017en\u00e1 lep\u0161\u00ed, ne\u017e kdyby se pustila do voln\u00e9 tvorby). \u010ce\u0161i va\u0159it doma um\u011bj\u00ed. \u017deny v\u011bt\u0161inou po\u0159\u00e1dnou men\u00e1\u017e, kterou nasyt\u00ed hladov\u00e9 str\u00e1vn\u00edky, j\u00eddla dobr\u00e1, vydatn\u00e1, standardn\u00ed, ov\u011b\u0159en\u00e1, poctiv\u00e1, \u010dasto s nakukov\u00e1n\u00edm do recept\u00e1\u0159e babi\u010dky Berty nebo synovce gugl\u00edka. Hlavn\u011b o v\u00edkendech to b\u00fdvaj\u00ed j\u00eddla i docela slo\u017eit\u00e1 a p\u0159esn\u011b odpov\u00eddaj\u00edc\u00ed tomu, co zvolen\u00fd titul p\u0159edpisov\u011b obn\u00e1\u0161\u00ed.<\/p>\n

Chlapi obvykle va\u0159\u00edvaj\u00ed jinak. Otev\u0159ou lednici, mraz\u00e1k, sp\u00ed\u017e (a rodina m\u016f\u017ee b\u00fdt r\u00e1da, \u017ee nezkou\u0161eli otev\u0159\u00edt i botn\u00edk), a za\u010dnou experimentovat. Vzpomenou si na z\u00e1\u017eitek z dovolen\u00e9, na \u017eranici s kamar\u00e1dy, trochu toho, trochu tamtoho, p\u0159im\u011b\u0159en\u011b, p\u0159im\u011b\u0159en\u011b. Ono to nakonec zpravidla tak n\u011bjak docela dob\u0159e dopadne, nejsme blbci a z\u00e1kladn\u00ed kucha\u0159sk\u00e9 techniky p\u0159ece zn\u00e1me. Ale kdyby m\u011bl chlap za dva dny ud\u011blat p\u0159esn\u011b tot\u00e9\u017e, vyl\u00e1mal by si na takov\u00e9m \u00fakolu hroty u vidli\u010dky. A tak rad\u011bji \u0159\u00edk\u00e1, \u017ee te\u010f d\u011bl\u00e1 stroganova \u00e1 la moravsk\u00fd brabec na kari, p\u0159\u00ed\u0161t\u011b zase \u017ee to je kari a beskydsk\u00e1 kapsa \u00e1 la kutuzov.<\/p>\n

Schopnost\u00ed si uva\u0159it jsme \u00fapln\u011b sv\u011btov\u011b v\u00fdjime\u010dn\u00ed. I kdy\u017e si to taky leckdy uleh\u010dujeme klasickou zahradn\u00ed grilova\u010dkou, kter\u00e9 se m\u00e1 \u0159\u00edkat barbekj\u00fa a p\u0159i n\u00ed\u017e se dobr\u00e9 maso zapatl\u00e1 v\u0161elijak\u00fdmi kupovan\u00fdmi om\u00e1\u010dkami, vyr\u00e1b\u011bn\u00fdmi z ropy a ku\u0159ec\u00edch pa\u0159\u00e1t\u016f. Ale v\u011bt\u0161inou je ka\u017ed\u00e1 rodina schopna p\u0159ipravit kr\u00e1sn\u00fd ned\u011bln\u00ed ob\u011bd s n\u011bkolika chody. Kam se na n\u00e1s sv\u011bt hrabe. A ty pol\u00e9vky od maminky! Ostatn\u011b, kdy\u017e jsme u pol\u00e9vek, ty jako sou\u010d\u00e1st hlavn\u00edho j\u00eddla skoro nikde neznaj\u00ed, to je hodn\u011b \u010desk\u00e1 zvl\u00e1\u0161tnost. Ve Francii se jed\u00ed zimn\u00ed p\u0159esn\u00edd\u00e1vkov\u00e9 pol\u00e9vky, ve St\u0159edomo\u0159\u00ed r\u016fzn\u00e9 podoby bujab\u00e9zy coby hlavn\u00edho j\u00eddla (stejn\u011b jako ma\u010farsk\u00e9 hal\u00e1szle), jinde kr\u00e9mov\u00e9 zeleninov\u00e9 \u010di ryb\u00ed s pe\u010divem jako pozdn\u00ed ve\u010de\u0159e. Ale pol\u00e9vka coby chod m\u00edsto p\u0159edkrmu nebo po n\u011bm, to je fakt na\u0161e dom\u00e1c\u00ed specialita.<\/p>\n

Kdy\u017e se mluv\u00ed o \u010desk\u00e9 kuchyni, nej\u010dast\u011bji se coby jej\u00ed symbol uv\u00e1d\u00ed knedl\u00edk. Jeho v\u00fdznam se ale p\u0159ece\u0148uje. Ve skute\u010dnosti jde o podvozek, na kter\u00e9m se do \u00fast nese to hlavn\u00ed: om\u00e1\u010dka. A jsme u dal\u0161\u00ed \u010desk\u00e9 chlouby. Jsou jich tis\u00edce. T\u011bch om\u00e1\u010dek. Od pov\u011bstn\u00e9 UHO (univerz\u00e1ln\u00ed hn\u011bd\u00e9 om\u00e1\u010dky z vojny \u2013 mimochodem, ta v\u016fbec nemus\u00ed b\u00fdt \u0161patn\u00e1), p\u0159es jemn\u011b nakysl\u00e9, syt\u011b smetanov\u00e9, s\u00fdrov\u00e9, \u0161vestkov\u00e9. Tady se knedl\u00edk ukazuje jako praktick\u00e1 pom\u016fcka, ale klidn\u011b lze om\u00e1\u010dku honit po tal\u00ed\u0159i chlebem.<\/p>\n

No a co na\u0161e sma\u017eeniny! Pro \u010cecha plat\u00ed: sma\u017e\u00edm, tedy jsem. A nechte stranou modern\u00ed v\u00fdznamy toho slova. Zaprv\u00e9 nev\u00edm, o co jde, za druh\u00e9 m\u011b to ur\u00e1\u017e\u00ed. Sma\u017een\u00e9 \u0159\u00edzky jsou jen branou do sv\u011bta dal\u0161\u00edch sma\u017eenin: sma\u017een\u00fdch s\u00fdr\u016f (v\u010detn\u011b tvar\u016f\u017ek\u016f), sma\u017een\u00e9ho kv\u011bt\u00e1ku, sma\u017een\u00fdch zeleninov\u00fdch karban\u00e1tk\u016f… Mimochodem, v\u00edte, \u017ee se d\u00e1 osma\u017eit i tla\u010denka? Zkuste ji v Prvn\u00ed Pivn\u00ed Tramwayi na Spo\u0159ilov\u011b.<\/p>\n

Vlastn\u011b se mi tady v\u016fbec nechce vyjmenov\u00e1vat v\u0161echny mo\u017en\u00e9 \u010desk\u00e9 (nebo \u00fadajn\u011b \u010desk\u00e9) ozdoby v\u0161edn\u00edch stol\u016f i slavnostn\u00edch tabul\u00ed, to bychom museli spolu proj\u00edt i krajinou v\u0161emo\u017en\u00fdch sladk\u00fdch j\u00eddel, t\u0159eba ovocn\u00fdch, v\u0161elijak\u00fdch zape\u010den\u00fdch dobrot, hodn\u011b bychom se mohli zdr\u017eet u \u010desk\u00e9 pr\u00e1ce s houbami, co\u017e jinde fakt neznaj\u00ed a krom\u011b \u017eampion\u016f by to ho huby nevzali, ale nakouknout bychom mohli i do zava\u0159enin, kompot\u016f, nakl\u00e1dan\u00fdch okurek a kdov\u00ed\u010deho je\u0161t\u011b. A t\u011bch dobrot z brambor! No vid\u00edte, a to jsou erteple zn\u00e1mou potravinou v na\u0161ich kraj\u00edch teprve n\u011bjak\u00fdch t\u0159ista let. Pak bychom se mohli zasn\u00edt u chvil, kdy m\u00e1 pan\u00ed domu dobrou n\u00e1ladu a rozhodne se up\u00e9ct buchtu, \u0161tr\u016fdl, b\u00e1bovku, l\u00edvance, kobl\u00ed\u017eky, vdolky, dorty. M\u00edsto n\u011bjak\u00e9ho v\u00fd\u010dtu posta\u010d\u00ed v\u011bdom\u00ed, \u017ee se d\u00e1 j\u00edst i hezky \u010desky.<\/p>\n

A \u017ee kalorie? No, dokud je\u0161t\u011b v\u011bt\u0161ina n\u00e1roda pracovala rukama, kalori\u00ed bylo t\u0159eba. N\u00e1rodov\u00e9, kte\u0159\u00ed si na fyzickou pr\u00e1ci u\u017e d\u00e1vno zjednali mechanick\u00e9 \u010di zahrani\u010dn\u00ed pomocn\u00edky, za\u010dali d\u0159\u00edve leniv\u011bt a museli za\u010d\u00edt vym\u00fd\u0161let n\u00e1hradn\u00ed \u010dinnosti, jako nap\u0159\u00edklad j\u00edzdu po chodn\u00edku na kole nebo b\u011bh\u00e1n\u00ed ve ve\u0159ejn\u00e9m parku jen tak v trenk\u00e1ch p\u0159ed o\u010dima zd\u011b\u0161en\u00e9 nevinn\u00e9 ml\u00e1de\u017ee. To se pak z nudy vym\u00fd\u0161lej\u00ed j\u00eddla nej\u00eddla, hlavn\u011b udr\u017eiteln\u00e1 (i kdy\u017e udr\u017eet po nich stolici m\u016f\u017ee b\u00fdt n\u011bkdy probl\u00e9m), p\u0159\u00e1telsk\u00e1 k dysneyovsk\u00fdm zv\u00ed\u0159\u00e1tk\u016fm, mluv\u00edc\u00edm mrkv\u00edm a inteligentn\u00edm chobotnic\u00edm. Kdy\u017e to b\u011bh\u00e1 a kouk\u00e1 to na tebe, nejez to. A kdy\u017e to j\u00ed\u0161, neva\u0159 to. Ale zas to nejez \u017eiv\u00e9, pokud ob\u011bd ned\u00e1 p\u0159edem p\u00edsemn\u00fd souhlas. No, mysl\u00edm, \u017ee j\u00edst se d\u00e1 i se zdrav\u00fdm rozumem.<\/p>\n

A \u017ee jsou na\u0161e kulturn\u00ed obzory omezen\u00e9? No, pokud n\u011bkdo m\u011bl koloni\u00e1ln\u00ed \u0159\u00ed\u0161i, nad kterou slunce nezapadalo, a byl po cel\u00fd \u017eivot doma v\u0161ude a nikde, pak se mu lok\u00e1ln\u00ed tradice jist\u011b zd\u00e1ly omezen\u00fdmi. Ale pokud jste po cel\u00e9 generace \u017eili t\u0159eba v jenom alpsk\u00e9m \u00fadol\u00ed, byl zredukovan\u00fd nejen v\u00e1\u0161 v\u00fdb\u011br p\u0159\u00edpadn\u00e9ho vhodn\u00e9ho partnera k rozmno\u017eov\u00e1n\u00ed, ale i \u017eivotn\u00ed styl. \u017divotn\u00ed styl ale d\u011bl\u00e1 ze seskupen\u00ed jedinc\u016f spole\u010denstv\u00ed. Spole\u010denstv\u00ed lid\u00ed je mno\u017eina jedinc\u016f ne nach\u00e1zej\u00edc\u00edch se zrovna v dan\u00e9m prostoru, ale maj\u00edc\u00edch cosi spole\u010dn\u00e9ho. Rozum\u011bj\u00ed podobn\u00e9mu humoru, znaj\u00ed stejn\u00e9 p\u00edsn\u011b, drby, pov\u011bsti i zp\u016fsoby, jak se naj\u00edst a nap\u00edt. \u010c\u00edm omezen\u011bj\u0161\u00ed okruh zdroj\u016f, t\u00edm d\u016fkladn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed jejich pozn\u00e1n\u00ed a vyu\u017eit\u00ed.<\/p>\n

Jasn\u011b, je tu i riziko degenerace. I u toho mno\u017een\u00ed, i u spole\u010dn\u011b sd\u00edlen\u00fdch kulturn\u00edch z\u00e1klad\u016f. Proto je nutno jednou za \u010das sv\u00e1zat buchty do uzl\u00ed\u010dku, vz\u00edt h\u016fl a vyrazit do sv\u011bta. Tam se dob\u0159e d\u00edvat, o\u010dich\u00e1vat, poslouchat, ochutn\u00e1vat. Zcela jist\u011b naraz\u00edme na v\u011bci, kter\u00e9 se n\u00e1m v\u016fbec nebudou zamlouvat, proto\u017ee nejsme nepopsan\u00fdm listem, m\u00e1me n\u011bjakou civiliza\u010dn\u00ed v\u00fdbavu a s tou v\u0161e nelad\u00ed. Ale zcela ur\u010dit\u011b naraz\u00edme i na v\u011bci, u kter\u00fdch se rozsv\u00edt\u00edme jak stovka \u017e\u00e1rovka. \u017de jsem na to nep\u0159i\u0161el s\u00e1m a d\u0159\u00edv! No to je ono, to by se hodilo k na\u0161emu tomu, onomu… Ale pak v\u017edycky p\u0159ijde chv\u00edle, kdy \u010dlov\u011bk tak n\u011bjak v\u00ed, \u017ee je \u010das k n\u00e1vratu. A hajdy dom\u016f. Nemus\u00ed to b\u00fdt ani z druh\u00e9 strany zem\u011bkoule. Mo\u017en\u00e1 jen z francouzsk\u00e9 restaurace p\u0159es ulici. Nebo z etnografick\u00e9ho muzea. Odev\u0161ad se d\u00e1 n\u011bco odn\u00e9st dom\u016f (nechte n\u00e1m ty skalpy ve vitr\u00edn\u011b, pan\u00ed!). A doma pak n\u011bjak pou\u017e\u00edt, rozvinout, za\u010dlenit. Sem by se skoro hodilo jedno z povinn\u00fdch slov dne\u0161ka: inkludovat. No, rad\u011bji z\u016fstaneme u toho za\u010dlen\u011bn\u00ed.<\/p>\n

J\u00e1 nev\u00edm, jak v\u00e1m, ale mn\u011b z toho cestov\u00e1n\u00ed a z t\u011bch j\u00eddel n\u011bjak vyschlo. Jde se do hospody. A to je par\u00e1dn\u00ed \u010d\u00edslo \u010desk\u00e9ho varietn\u00edho programu. Nic takov\u00e9ho ve sv\u011bt\u011b nenajdete. Ani na \u017e\u00e1dn\u00e9 jin\u00e9 planet\u011b. Dobr\u00e1, jist\u00e9 podobnosti lze vid\u011bt u venkovsk\u00fdch anglick\u00fdch pub\u016f nebo rakousk\u00fdch \u010di bavorsk\u00fdch knajp, vn\u011bj\u0161\u00edmi znaky se ale my ned\u00e1me zm\u00e1st. \u010cesk\u00e1 hospoda je toti\u017e instituc\u00ed, kter\u00e1 nesnese srovn\u00e1n\u00ed. Je gravita\u010dn\u00edm centrem cel\u00e9 \u010desk\u00e9 kultury \u2013 a to i pro lidi, kte\u0159\u00ed do \u017e\u00e1dn\u00e9 v \u017eivot\u011b nep\u00e1chli. I oni si u\u017e\u00edvaj\u00ed plod\u016f, co by bez hospod nikdy nevznikly a neuzr\u00e1ly.<\/p>\n

Bez \u010desk\u00e9 hospody by u n\u00e1s ani l\u00edstek ze stromu nespadl. Sejdou se tam myslivci, aby domluvili p\u0159\u00ed\u0161t\u00ed nah\u00e1\u0148ku, fotbalisti, aby umyli hlavu rozhod\u010d\u00edm, hasi\u010di, aby uhasili pochybnosti, jestli ten vrchn\u00ed nen\u00ed n\u011bjakej divnej, nebo prost\u011b jen sousedi, kamar\u00e1di, nebo \u00fapln\u011b n\u00e1hodn\u00ed spolustolovn\u00edci. Do \u010desk\u00e9 hospody nemus\u00ed j\u00edt \u010dlov\u011bk melancholiv\u011b zevlovat u pastisu, jako n\u011bkde u baru na rue de Saint Guillaume, ani \u0159e\u0161it obchodn\u00ed sch\u016fzky jako za stolem u okna na Sir Francis Drake Blvd. U n\u00e1s tam prost\u011b vlezete, a k n\u011bkomu p\u0159isednete. Nen\u00ed to neslu\u0161n\u00e9, stejn\u011b to b\u00fdvaj\u00ed stoly t\u0159eba pro osm, s lavicemi m\u00edsto \u017eidl\u00ed. Jen a pouze v \u010desk\u00e9 hospod\u011b vedle sebe sed\u00ed chlap od lopaty, hubat\u00e1 jeze\u010fa\u010dka, not\u00e1\u0159 (kdy\u017e p\u00ed\u0161u not\u00e1\u0159, mysl\u00edm t\u00edm not\u00e1\u0159e), pokr\u00fdva\u010d, instalat\u00e9r \u010di politick\u00fd obchodn\u00edk s de\u0161t\u011bm. \u0158e\u0161\u00ed se fotbal, \u017eensk\u00e9, muzika, \u017eensk\u00e9, pivo, hokej, va\u0159en\u00ed, sb\u011br hub, \u017eensk\u00e9, pivo, napjat\u00e1 situace na barmsko-indick\u00e9 hranici, \u017eensk\u00e9… \u00dapln\u011b nejvd\u011b\u010dn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed t\u00e9ma je ale zdrav\u00ed. To ti m\u011b v\u010dera tak d\u011bsn\u011b louplo… ani to nedo\u0159eknete, a u\u017e to jede. Koukejte, jak mi otejkaj nohy. Hele, co beru za nov\u00fd pr\u00e1\u0161ky na tlak. No a co se k tomu pije? R\u016fzn\u00e9 blbosti, ale hlavn\u011b pivo.<\/p>\n

S pivem coby n\u00e1rodn\u00edm n\u00e1pojem je to dost specifick\u00e9. V \u010desk\u00e9 kotlin\u011b se pivo pije u\u017e nejm\u00e9n\u011b tis\u00edc let. Ale p\u0159em\u00fd\u0161lel n\u011bkdo o tom, jak\u00e9 to pivo bylo, \u010di sp\u00ed\u0161e: jak\u00e1 to byla piva? Nyn\u00ed za klasick\u00e9 \u010desk\u00e9 pivo pova\u017eujeme le\u017e\u00e1k, ale to je modern\u00ed pr\u016fmyslov\u00fd pivn\u00ed styl, vznikl\u00fd p\u0159ed krat\u0161\u00ed dobou, ne\u017e t\u0159eba telegraf. Tak\u017ee takov\u00fd Josef Dobrovsk\u00fd \u017e\u00e1dn\u00fd le\u017e\u00e1k zn\u00e1t nemohl.<\/p>\n

Po stalet\u00ed se u n\u00e1s pila piva \u00fapln\u011b jin\u00e1. Kva\u0161en\u00e1 svrchn\u011b, tedy p\u0159i norm\u00e1ln\u00ed pokojov\u00e9 teplot\u011b. Byla zakalen\u00e1, t\u00e9m\u011b\u0159 nechmelen\u00e1, v n\u011bkter\u00fdch obdob\u00edch p\u0159eva\u017eovala piva p\u0161eni\u010dn\u00e1. Kdy\u017e pak od druh\u00e9 poloviny 19. stolet\u00ed spolu s pr\u016fmyslovou revoluc\u00ed nastala i revoluce le\u017e\u00e1kov\u00e1, tak se d\u00edky sv\u00e9 vhodnosti k masov\u00e9 tov\u00e1rn\u00ed v\u00fdrob\u011b zakr\u00e1tko stal le\u017e\u00e1k dominantn\u00edm pivn\u00edm stylem t\u00e9m\u011b\u0159 po cel\u00e9m sv\u011bt\u011b. Dominantn\u00edm v\u0161ude. Ale jen v jedn\u00e9 zemi se stal stylem ne dominantn\u00edm, ale rovnou monopoln\u00edm. U n\u00e1s. D\u00e9le ne\u017e do za\u010d\u00e1tku dvac\u00e1t\u00e9ho stolet\u00ed tak u n\u00e1s nep\u0159e\u017eil ani v jedin\u00e9m z mnoha set pivovar\u016f alespo\u0148 n\u011bkter\u00fd ze styl\u016f, kter\u00e9 pil t\u0159eba Karel Hynek M\u00e1cha.<\/p>\n

Sv\u011bt\u00e1ck\u00e9 o\u017eiven\u00ed a zpest\u0159en\u00ed k n\u00e1m p\u0159i\u0161lo a\u017e p\u0159ed n\u011bjak\u00fdmi dvaceti lety paradoxn\u011b spolu s jinou revoluc\u00ed, kter\u00e1 p\u0159itom za\u010dala v 70. letech v Americe: s revoluc\u00ed v podob\u011b n\u00e1stupu ohromn\u00e9ho mno\u017estv\u00ed mikropivovar\u016f, nov\u00fdch pivn\u00edch styl\u016f \u010di styl\u016f obl\u00edben\u00fdch v jin\u00fdch zem\u00edch. A pr\u00e1v\u011b d\u00edky t\u011bmto \u201enovot\u00e1m\u201c mnoz\u00ed na\u0161i dne\u0161n\u00ed piva\u0159i poprv\u00e9 okusili piva svrchn\u011b kva\u0161en\u00e1, jak\u00e1 tu p\u0159itom po stalet\u00ed b\u00fdvala doma. A funguj\u00edc\u00ed pivovary se vr\u00e1tily do m\u011bste\u010dek, ba i vesnic.<\/p>\n

Ale pozor. I ty le\u017e\u00e1ky se vracej\u00ed do repertoiru \u010desk\u00fdch pivn\u00edch zmlsanc\u016f. A dnes tak za\u017e\u00edvaj\u00ed renesanci i v mikropivovarech a v barech pro pivn\u00ed fajn\u0161mekry. Pokud je\u0161t\u011b p\u0159ed patn\u00e1cti lety na p\u0159ehl\u00eddk\u00e1ch mikropivovar\u016f p\u0159evl\u00e1daly le\u017e\u00e1ky, bylo to sp\u00ed\u0161e proto, \u017ee sl\u00e1dkov\u00e9 v\u011bt\u0161inou \u017e\u00e1dn\u00fd jin\u00fd pivn\u00ed styl neznali, a tedy ani neum\u011bli. Jestli\u017ee se dnes \u010desk\u00e9 mikropivovary k le\u017e\u00e1k\u016fm po \u00e9\u0159e ejl\u016f naopak vracej\u00ed, nen\u00ed to u\u017e z neznalosti styl\u016f jin\u00fdch, ale naopak: nyn\u00ed um\u011bj\u00ed spodn\u011b kva\u0161en\u00e1 piva d\u011blat na nov\u00e9, vy\u0161\u0161\u00ed \u00farovni, kter\u00e1 v\u00edce podtrhne p\u0159ednosti \u010desk\u00e9ho le\u017e\u00e1ku. Je to takov\u00fd n\u00e1vrat z vandru dom\u016f.<\/p>\n

P\u0159esn\u011b. Dost jsme se narajzovali. To zhruba mezi lety 2005 – 2015 pivn\u00ed fajn\u0161mek\u0159i spodn\u011b kva\u0161en\u00e1 piva skoro v\u016fbec nepili (leda\u017ee nic jin\u00e9ho nebylo k m\u00e1n\u00ed). Zaprv\u00e9 m\u011bli pocit, \u017ee se jich (v r\u016fzn\u00fdch kvalit\u00e1ch) napili za \u017eivot dost a dost a je t\u0159eba se te\u010f v\u011bnovat styl\u016fm do t\u00e9 doby trestuhodn\u011b zanedban\u00fdm, proto\u017ee kdysi ne zcela dostupn\u00fdm. Zadruh\u00e9 se \u2013 zejm\u00e9na v prvn\u00ed p\u011btiletce onoho obdob\u00ed – na pivn\u00edch p\u0159ehl\u00eddk\u00e1ch a festivalech setk\u00e1vali s t\u00edm, \u017ee vedle sebe stoj\u00edc\u00ed st\u00e1nky nov\u00fdch mal\u00fdch pivovar\u016f nab\u00edzely v\u0161echny tot\u00e9\u017e, n\u011bjakou tu des\u00edtku, pak t\u0159eba polotmavou jeden\u00e1ctku a n\u011bjak\u00fd ten le\u017e\u00e1k. A o st\u00e1nek vedle zase \u00fapln\u011b tot\u00e9\u017e.<\/p>\n

Vzpom\u00ednal jsem p\u0159itom na Ameriku a na v\u011btu, kterou jsem tam sl\u00fdch\u00e1val: jedinou ospravedlnitelnou motivac\u00ed, pro\u010d si zakl\u00e1dat vlastn\u00ed nov\u00fd pivovar, je v\u011bdom\u00ed, \u017ee m\u00e1m n\u00e1pad, jak d\u011blat pivo, se kter\u00fdm dosud je\u0161t\u011b nikdo nep\u0159i\u0161el. Proto\u017ee k tomu, abych d\u011blal n\u011bco, co u\u017e d\u011blaj\u00ed jin\u00ed, pivovar p\u0159ece zakl\u00e1dat nemus\u00edm. Takov\u00e1 my\u0161lenka tady p\u016fsobila jak spadl\u00e1 z Marsu. Zalo\u017e\u00edm si p\u0159ece pivovar a budu v n\u011bm d\u011blat pivo, ne? Co jin\u00e9ho.<\/p>\n

Zat\u0159et\u00ed p\u0159i\u0161lo obdob\u00ed (t\u011bsn\u011b po 2010), kdy se zase v\u0161ichni sl\u00e1dci mal\u00fdch pivovar\u016f zbl\u00e1znili do ho\u0159k\u00fdch ejl\u016f a americk\u00fdch chmel\u016f. To se n\u00e1m docela l\u00edbilo, jakkoli \u0161lo \u010dasto o za\u010d\u00e1te\u010dnick\u00e9 pokusy. A d\u011blaly se tu \u010d\u00edm d\u00e1l lep\u0161\u00ed a \u010d\u00edm d\u00e1l v\u00edc. Le\u017e\u00e1ky \u0161ly stranou a mikropivovary jim nev\u011bnovaly moc pozornosti. A proto v portfoliu tehdej\u0161\u00edho b\u011b\u017en\u00e9ho mikropivovaru rozhodn\u011b nepat\u0159ily k tomu nejlep\u0161\u00edmu.<\/p>\n

A za\u010dtvrt\u00e9: kdo pije nele\u017e\u00e1kov\u00e9 pivn\u00ed styly, c\u00edt\u00ed se pov\u00fd\u0161en nad ostatn\u00ed pivn\u00ed plebejce. Tak\u017ee i p\u011bkn\u00fd kus snob\u00e1rny v tom byl. Ale \u2013 coby poleh\u010duj\u00edc\u00ed okolnost \u2013 v\u0161echny ty ipy, ejly, p\u0161enice, trapisti, stouty, lambiky \u2013 p\u0159eci jen nab\u00edzely pest\u0159ej\u0161\u00ed z\u00e1\u017eitek ve\u010dera, ne\u017e cuml\u00e1n\u00ed nudn\u00e9 tov\u00e1rn\u00ed tekutiny, kter\u00e1 nic zaj\u00edmav\u00e9ho nep\u0159in\u00e1\u0161ela.<\/p>\n

Ale \u010dasy se m\u011bn\u00ed. A za\u010dalo to zhruba p\u0159ed p\u011bti sedmi lety. Mikropivovarnictv\u00edm i nad\u00e1le proch\u00e1zela jedna z\u00e1sadn\u00ed nov\u00e1 m\u00f3dn\u00ed (a \u010dasto velmi zaj\u00edmav\u00e1) vlna za druhou, ale z\u00e1rove\u0148 mnoh\u00e9 z t\u011bchto pivovar\u016f za\u010dalo m\u00edt ambici p\u0159edv\u00e9st se se sv\u00fdm echt le\u017e\u00e1kem. U\u017e ne coby z nouze ctnost, jako v dob\u00e1ch, kdy nic jin\u00e9ho bu\u010f neum\u011bly, nebo jejich z\u00e1kazn\u00edci nic jin\u00e9ho necht\u011bli. Ud\u011blat kvalitn\u00ed le\u017e\u00e1k se toti\u017e nyn\u00ed stalo pro ka\u017ed\u00e9ho dobr\u00e9ho sl\u00e1dka v\u00fdzvou. Je to trochu jako s t\u00edm zm\u00edn\u011bn\u00fdm va\u0159en\u00edm u chlap\u016f. Nah\u00e1\u017eou na p\u00e1nev, co najdou ve sp\u00ed\u017ei nebo v lednici, a zasypou to svou obl\u00edbenou kombinac\u00ed ko\u0159en\u00ed. To by n\u00e1m \u0161lo. Kdyby n\u00e1hodou m\u011bl str\u00e1vn\u00edk v\u00fdhrady, vysv\u011btl\u00ed se mu, \u017ee tomu nerozum\u00ed, \u017ee to byl z\u00e1m\u011br a p\u0159esn\u011b takhle to m\u011blo chutnat. Ale kdyby onen kucha\u0159sk\u00fd nad\u0161enec m\u011bl uva\u0159it n\u011bjakou definovanou klasiku (kterou ka\u017ed\u00fd str\u00e1vn\u00edk zn\u00e1 a um\u00ed ji srovnat s mnoha, kter\u00e9 u\u017e jedl), pak by asi rad\u011bji vycouval. Ale pokud je to prof\u00edk a um\u00ed, rukavici zvedne. A le\u017e\u00e1k je p\u0159esn\u011b takovou rukavic\u00ed.<\/p>\n

U mnoha jin\u00fdch pivn\u00edch styl\u016f m\u016f\u017ee sl\u00e1dek alibisticky \u0159\u00edkat, \u017ee to je experiment\u00e1ln\u00ed v\u00e1rka a \u017ee p\u0159esn\u011b takov\u00e9 to cht\u011bl, a\u0165 u\u017e to dopadne jakkoli. Jen\u017ee u le\u017e\u00e1ku jsou standardy nejp\u0159esn\u011bji definovan\u00e9 a odchylku od nich pozn\u00e1 kdekdo. Ale copak le\u017e\u00e1ky v u\u017e\u0161\u00edm smyslu (tedy spodn\u011b kva\u0161en\u00e9 jeden\u00e1ctky a dvan\u00e1ctky). Je\u0161t\u011b v\u011bt\u0161\u00ed v\u00fdzvou posledn\u00edch let jsou v\u00fd\u010depn\u00ed piva, nej\u010dast\u011bji des\u00edtky, ba i slab\u0161\u00ed. V des\u00edtk\u00e1ch se markantn\u011b pozn\u00e1 rozd\u00edl mezi pivem odfl\u00e1knut\u00fdm a pivem poctiv\u00fdm.<\/p>\n

Neodpust\u00edm si ale k t\u011bm \u010desk\u00fdm spodn\u011b kva\u0161en\u00fdm piv\u016fm jednu v\u011bc. Nemohu vyst\u00e1t, jak vypad\u00e1 marketing v\u011bt\u0161iny \u010desk\u00fdch velk\u00fdch i mal\u00fdch pivovar\u016f, jejich\u017e drtiv\u00e1 v\u011bt\u0161ina produkce je a v\u017edy byla le\u017e\u00e1kov\u00e1, spodn\u011b kva\u0161en\u00e1. Le\u017e\u00e1k je modern\u00ed pr\u016fmyslov\u00e9 pivo. Byl zrozen sou\u010dasn\u011b s pr\u016fmyslovou revoluc\u00ed, to u\u017e jsme brali, \u017ee. A u n\u00e1s se po\u0159\u00e1d spojuje s n\u011bjak\u00fdm star\u00fdm zapr\u00e1\u0161en\u00fdm rezav\u00fdm st\u0159edov\u011bk\u00fdm feud\u00e1ln\u00edm haraburd\u00edm. V\u0161ude sam\u00e9 \u0161vabachy, erby, sudlice a me\u010de, sam\u00ed pano\u0161ov\u00e9, hrabata, baroni, kn\u011b\u017eny, kr\u00e1lov\u00e9, princov\u00e9, podkon\u00ed, nadkon\u00ed, purkrab\u00ed, v\u00e9vodov\u00e9, ryt\u00ed\u0159ov\u00e9, rycht\u00e1\u0159ov\u00e9, purkmist\u0159i, helmice, cimbu\u0159\u00ed, padac\u00ed mosty, park\u00e1ny, halapartny, ku\u0161e… Pry\u010d s t\u00edm. Nah\u00e1zet do kontejneru a odv\u00e9zt do sb\u011brn\u00e9ho dvora. A v\u0161echny ty vyb\u00e1jen\u00e9 letopo\u010dty tak\u00e9 (v\u011bt\u0161inou odkazuj\u00ed na prvn\u00ed p\u00edsemnou zm\u00ednku o produkov\u00e1n\u00ed piva v dan\u00e9m m\u011bst\u011b, nic v\u00edc). Na\u0161e zem\u011b zrodila modern\u00ed pr\u016fmyslov\u00fd pivn\u00ed styl, kter\u00fd b\u011bhem generac\u00ed dobyl sv\u011bt. To se za to styd\u00edme? Pokud n\u011bjak\u00fd retro pivovar d\u011bl\u00e1 piva podle st\u0159edov\u011bk\u00fdch receptur (takov\u00fd u n\u00e1s nezn\u00e1m, jen ojedin\u011bl\u00e9 pokusy), pak a\u0165 na star\u00e9 \u010dasy odkazuje. Ale pivo zrozen\u00e9 v dob\u00e1ch verneovek, telegrafu, \u017eeleznice, prvn\u00edch fotografi\u00ed a ponorek fakt nem\u00e1 zapot\u0159eb\u00ed hr\u00e1t si na gotiku. Je na\u010dase pustit do pivn\u00edho marketingu (i t\u011bch nejv\u011bt\u0161\u00edch pivovar\u016f) sou\u010dasn\u00fd sv\u011btov\u00fd styl. U\u017e p\u0159ece nechod\u00edme na pivo do \u0161enku v dr\u00e1t\u011bn\u00e9 ko\u0161ili nebo v kroji z patn\u00e1ct\u00e9ho stolet\u00ed.<\/p>\n

Je n\u00e1dhern\u00e9, \u017ee se n\u00e1m otev\u0159el p\u0159epestr\u00fd sv\u011bt nejroztodivn\u011bj\u0161\u00edch pivn\u00edch i stravovac\u00edch styl\u016f. Pozn\u00e1vejme je, ochutn\u00e1vejme, zkou\u0161ejme a t\u011b\u0161me se z nich. Ale nezapom\u00ednejme, na \u010dem jsme vyrostli. Krom\u011b v\u0161ech forem pivn\u00edho n\u00e1rodn\u00edho obrozen\u00ed je k dispozici ka\u017ed\u00e9mu z n\u00e1s ta forma nejd\u016fle\u017eit\u011bj\u0161\u00ed: vr\u00e1tit se od dom\u00e1c\u00edho pop\u00edjen\u00ed lahvov\u00e9ho u televize k popit\u00ed v pospolitosti. Je\u0161t\u011b p\u0159ed deseti lety jsme byli jedinou zem\u00ed sv\u011bta, kter\u00e1 m\u011bla vy\u0161\u0161\u00ed spot\u0159ebu sudov\u00e9ho piva ne\u017e lahvov\u00e9ho. To u\u017e bohu\u017eel neplat\u00ed. Lid\u00e9 i u n\u00e1s u\u017e jsou l\u00edn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed, m\u00e9n\u011b spole\u010den\u0161t\u00ed, pivo st\u00e1le dra\u017e\u0161\u00ed. A nav\u00edc do toho p\u0159i\u0161ly morov\u00e9 r\u00e1ny v podob\u011b EET, regulac\u00ed, inspekc\u00ed, z\u00e1kazu kou\u0159en\u00ed… A te\u010f h\u0159eb\u00edk do rakve – vl\u00e1dn\u00edch restrikce.<\/p>\n

Ale takto kon\u010dit nechceme. Skon\u010d\u00edme za\u010d\u00e1tkem. Ani omezen\u00fd buran, ani snob\u00e1ck\u00fd sv\u011bt\u00e1\u010dek. Norm\u00e1ln\u00ed \u010cech dob\u0159e v\u00ed, \u010deho se dr\u017eet, kde je doma, kdo je jeho krajan, z \u010deho vze\u0161el, a z\u00e1rove\u0148 se um\u00ed inspirovat, pou\u010dit se jinde a taky se vysm\u00e1t blbostem, kter\u00e9 jsou jinde pova\u017eov\u00e1ny za normu. A pak se vr\u00e1tit ke sv\u00e9mu a to sv\u00e9 zase o trochu apgrejdovat. No, rad\u011bji vylep\u0161it. Ned\u011blejme ze sebe ani sv\u011bt\u00e1\u010dky, ani \u010dech\u00e1\u010dky, bu\u010fme oby\u010dejn\u00fdmi poctiv\u00fdmi dobr\u00fdmi \u010cechy.<\/p>\n

Ps\u00e1no pro Barlife<\/p>\n<\/div>\n

Zdroj<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Je na \u010desk\u00e9 kultu\u0159e a na\u0161em \u017eivotn\u00edm stylu v\u016fbec n\u011bco specifick\u00e9ho? Nebo je to jen primitivn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed verze rakousk\u00e9 a bavorsk\u00e9 tradice?<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"ngg_post_thumbnail":0,"footnotes":""},"categories":[20,1],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-12253","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-pivo","category-publikovane-clanky"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.ladislavjakl.cz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/12253","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.ladislavjakl.cz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.ladislavjakl.cz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.ladislavjakl.cz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.ladislavjakl.cz\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=12253"}],"version-history":[{"count":1,"href":"https:\/\/www.ladislavjakl.cz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/12253\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":12254,"href":"https:\/\/www.ladislavjakl.cz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/12253\/revisions\/12254"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.ladislavjakl.cz\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=12253"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.ladislavjakl.cz\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=12253"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.ladislavjakl.cz\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=12253"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}