O druh\u00e9m \u010dervnov\u00e9m v\u00edkendu prob\u011bhla za kr\u00e1sn\u00e9ho po\u010das\u00ed na unik\u00e1tn\u00edm m\u00edst\u011b v\u00a0zahrad\u00e1ch Pra\u017esk\u00e9ho hradu p\u0159ehl\u00eddka \u010desk\u00fdch mikropivovar\u016f z\u00a0rozhodn\u00fdm n\u00e1zvem \u201ePivo na Hrad!\u201c Se svou degusta\u010dn\u00ed sklenkou jsem tam hned v\u00a0prvn\u00edch minut\u00e1ch narazil na \u00fapln\u011b nov\u00e9 pivo \u00fapln\u011b nov\u00e9ho pivovaru, kter\u00fd v\u00a0posledn\u00edch m\u011bs\u00edc\u00edch vyrostl v\u00a0benediktinsk\u00e9m kl\u00e1\u0161te\u0159e na B\u0159evnov\u011b.<\/p>\n
Nese n\u00e1zev B\u0159evnovsk\u00fd kl\u00e1\u0161tern\u00ed pivovar sv. Vojt\u011bcha a p\u0159i\u0161el na sv\u011bt po dlouh\u00e9m a t\u011b\u017ek\u00e9m t\u011bhotenstv\u00ed. Co raz\u00edtek, co povolen\u00ed, co \u00fa\u0159ednick\u00fdch obstrukc\u00ed! Ale pivovar nakonec v n\u011bkdej\u0161\u00edch barokn\u00edch st\u00e1j\u00edch pivo p\u0159ece jen va\u0159\u00ed a v\u00a0t\u011bchto dnech se otev\u00edr\u00e1 ve\u0159ejnosti. A jak jsem si ov\u011b\u0159il na hradn\u00edm pivn\u00edm festivalu, maj\u00ed se znalci na co t\u011b\u0161it. U\u017e klasick\u00fd sv\u011btl\u00fd le\u017e\u00e1k je \u00fapln\u011b z\u00a0jin\u00e9ho soudku, tedy sp\u00ed\u0161e le\u017e\u00e1ck\u00e9ho tanku, ne\u017e b\u011b\u017en\u00e1 tov\u00e1rn\u00ed spot\u0159ebn\u00ed tekutina. A co teprve Imperial Pilsner! Ten se nepije, ten se skoro kou\u0161e. A ta vyv\u00e1\u017eenost chut\u00ed a plnost, \u017ee se ani do velk\u00e9 pusy skoro nevejde. \u010clov\u011bk se nediv\u00ed, \u017ee po jeho ochutn\u00e1n\u00ed prohl\u00e1sil pan opat Siostrzonek, \u017ee se zamiloval do dvac\u00edtky. Tolik stup\u0148\u016f toti\u017e tenhle pivn\u00ed skvost m\u00e1. A to je teprve za\u010d\u00e1tek. V\u00a0p\u0159\u00ed\u0161t\u00edch t\u00fddnech chyst\u00e1 t\u00fdm pivovarsk\u00e9ho odborn\u00edka Jana \u0160ur\u00e1n\u011b dal\u0161\u00ed a dal\u0161\u00ed pivn\u00ed novinky. A to je dob\u0159e. Pivovarsk\u00e1 tradice \u010desk\u00fdch kl\u00e1\u0161ter\u016f si \u017e\u00e1d\u00e1 pokra\u010dov\u00e1n\u00ed.<\/p>\n
N\u011bkte\u0159\u00ed pivopisci uv\u00e1d\u011bj\u00ed, \u017ee zrovna B\u0159evnovsk\u00fd kl\u00e1\u0161ter je prvn\u00edm m\u00edstem u n\u00e1s, kde je dolo\u017eena v\u00fdroba piva. Jin\u00ed pivopisci celkem popr\u00e1vu nam\u00edtaj\u00ed, \u017ee to nen\u00ed tak \u00fapln\u011b pravda, proto\u017ee ony nejstar\u0161\u00ed z\u00e1znamy z\u00a011. stolet\u00ed se t\u00fdkaj\u00ed obchodu s\u00a0chmelem, nikoli p\u0159\u00edmo piva. Chmel toti\u017e nen\u00ed odv\u011bkou sou\u010d\u00e1st\u00ed piva. Aromatickou a ho\u0159kou slo\u017ekou byly v\u00a0r\u016fzn\u00fdch kraj\u00edch a r\u016fzn\u00fdch mravech v\u0161elijak\u00e9 byliny a jin\u00e9 roztodivn\u00e9 p\u0159\u00edsady. Pravideln\u00e9 a soustavn\u00e9 va\u0159en\u00ed piva s\u00a0chmelem a hospod\u00e1\u0159skou produkci chmele maj\u00ed na sv\u011bdom\u00ed podle mnoha z\u00e1znam\u016f pr\u00e1v\u011b kl\u00e1\u0161tery, a to v\u00a0p\u00e1su od Flander a\u017e po \u010cechy a zhruba od 11. do 14. stolet\u00ed.<\/p>\n
Pro kl\u00e1\u0161tery bylo va\u0159en\u00ed piva p\u0159edev\u0161\u00edm v\u00fdznamn\u00fdm hospod\u00e1\u0159sk\u00fdm p\u0159\u00ednosem. Kl\u00e1\u0161tery disponovaly pot\u0159ebn\u00fdm z\u00e1zem\u00edm a tak\u00e9 \u2013 narozd\u00edl od m\u011bst \u2013 nepot\u0159ebovaly k\u00a0va\u0159en\u00ed piva v\u00e1re\u010dn\u00e9 pr\u00e1vo od sv\u011btsk\u00e9 moci. N\u011bkter\u00e9 \u0159\u00e1dy se v\u0161ak rozhodn\u011b neod\u0159\u00edkaly ani mohutn\u00e9 konzumaci piva, p\u0159i\u010dem\u017e \u2013 jak plyne z\u00a0n\u011bkter\u00fdch z\u00e1znam\u016f \u2013 jejich v\u00fdkony v\u00a0p\u0159epo\u010dtu na hlavu a s\u00a0p\u0159ihl\u00e9dnut\u00edm k\u00a0s\u00edle tehdej\u0161\u00edch piv byly velmi mu\u017en\u00e9. Je tak\u00e9 t\u0159eba dodat, \u017ee pivo bylo p\u0159edev\u0161\u00edm v\u00a0zimn\u00edm obdob\u00ed z\u00e1sadn\u00ed polo\u017ekou na kalorick\u00e9m p\u0159\u00edsunu chud\u00e9ho j\u00eddeln\u00ed\u010dku mnich\u016f. V\u0161ak tak\u00e9 n\u011bkter\u00e9 kl\u00e1\u0161tern\u00ed pivovary ze \u0160v\u00fdcarka \u010di Belgie d\u011blaj\u00ed v\u00a0Americe d\u00edru do sv\u011bta pomoc\u00ed pov\u011bst\u00ed, jak obyvatelsko v\u00a0nich ukryt\u00e9 p\u0159ed stalet\u00edmi p\u0159e\u017eilo obl\u00e9h\u00e1n\u00ed ko\u0159istnick\u00fdch dobyvatel\u016f jen d\u00edky m\u00edstn\u00edmu vydatn\u00e9mu pivu. Inu, poh\u00e1dky maj\u00ed Ameri\u010dan\u00e9 r\u00e1di a r\u00e1di si je zaplat\u00ed. Pivo bylo pro mnichy bezpe\u010dn\u00e9 i ze zdravotn\u00edho hlediska. Pivo p\u0159eva\u0159en\u00e9, nav\u00edc se \u017eiv\u00fdmi kvasinkami, s aseptick\u00fdm efektem chmelu a alkoholu d\u00e1valo chole\u0159e \u010di \u00faplavici mnohem men\u0161\u00ed \u0161ance ne\u017e podez\u0159el\u00e1 voda z\u00a0de\u0161\u0165ov\u00fdch cisteren.<\/p>\n
Zaj\u00edmav\u00e9 je, \u017ee mni\u0161i kdekoli po Evrop\u011b va\u0159ili pivo pon\u011bkud odli\u0161n\u00fdch charakteristik ne\u017e v\u00e1re\u010dn\u00e9 domy ve m\u011bstech. V\u00a0kl\u00e1\u0161terech nebyla tak popul\u00e1rn\u00ed lehk\u00e1 \u010di p\u0161eni\u010dn\u00e1 piva, daleko \u010dast\u011bji se u mnich\u016f setk\u00e1v\u00e1me se siln\u00fdmi a\u017e velmi siln\u00fdmi pivy typu ale, po invazi spodn\u011b kva\u0161en\u00fdch piv se obliba mnich\u016f mnohde p\u0159iklonila k\u00a0t\u011b\u017ek\u00fdm a hutn\u00fdm piv\u016fm typu bock. Nad d\u016fvody nehodl\u00e1m spekulovat.<\/p>\n
Charakteristi\u010dnost kl\u00e1\u0161tern\u00edch piv byla leckde tak v\u00fdrazn\u00e1, \u017ee vedla k\u00a0samostatn\u00e9mu druhov\u00e9mu ozna\u010den\u00ed. Nap\u0159\u00edklad v\u00a0Belgii jsou jako \u201ekl\u00e1\u0161tern\u00ed\u201c obvykle ozna\u010dov\u00e1na ta siln\u00e1 svrchn\u011b kva\u0161en\u00e1 piva, kter\u00e1 va\u0159\u00ed n\u011bkdo jin\u00fd, ne\u017e sedm privilegovan\u00fdch trapistick\u00fdch kl\u00e1\u0161ter\u016f. Ty jsou ov\u0161em ve sv\u011bt\u011b piva samostatnou kapitolou. Rochefort, Orval, Westvleteren, Chimay, Achel, Westmalle a La Trappe (ten jedin\u00fd z\u00a0nich je v\u00a0Nizozem\u00ed). Jde o \u00fa\u017easn\u00e1 origin\u00e1ln\u00ed piva s\u00a0p\u0159\u00edsn\u011b dodr\u017eovanou recepturou a tak\u00e9 s dokonal\u00fdm marketingem. Zde je mo\u017en\u00e1 nam\u00edst\u011b mal\u00e1 spekulace. Po vyhn\u00e1n\u00ed trapist\u016f z\u00a0Francie se \u010d\u00e1st z\u00a0nich us\u00eddlila v\u00a0Kladrubech u Plzn\u011b a na Bu\u0161t\u011bhrad\u011b. \u010c\u00e1st z\u00a0t\u00e9to \u010d\u00e1sti po n\u011bkolika generac\u00edch zam\u00ed\u0159ila pr\u00e1v\u011b do Flander a Brabantu. P\u0159\u00edmo se tak vnucuje my\u0161lenka, \u017ee v\u00a0trapistick\u00fdch pivech se mo\u017en\u00e1 odr\u00e1\u017e\u00ed i cosi ze star\u00fdch \u010desk\u00fdch pivn\u00edch tradic.<\/p>\n
Kl\u00e1\u0161tery v\u00a0Belgii a N\u011bmecku jsou skoro jedin\u00fdmi m\u00edsty, kde se v\u00a0Evrop\u011b udr\u017eela piva svrchn\u011b kva\u0161en\u00e1 je\u0161t\u011b p\u0159ed modern\u00edm boomem mikropivovar\u016f, proto\u017ee jinak t\u00e9m\u011b\u0159 celou Evropu a vlastn\u011b skoro cel\u00fd sv\u011bt zv\u00e1lcovalo nov\u00e9 tov\u00e1rn\u00ed pivo typu le\u017e\u00e1k, kter\u00e9 svou expanzi zah\u00e1jilo v\u00a0roce 1842 v\u00a0Plzni. Pr\u00e1v\u011b v\u00a0kl\u00e1\u0161terech p\u0159e\u017eila p\u016fvodn\u00ed pivovarsk\u00e1 kultura, v\u00a0n\u011bkter\u00fdch ohledech dokonce doslova, pokud pod slovem kultura rozum\u00edme i kultury kvasinkov\u00e9. Mnoh\u00e9 kl\u00e1\u0161tern\u00ed pivovary v\u00a0Bavorsku (nap\u0159\u00edklad Adrechs, kr\u00e1sn\u00fd kl\u00e1\u0161ter kousek na jihoz\u00e1pad od Mnichova) nakonec stejn\u011b p\u0159e\u0161ly na le\u017e\u00e1ky, va\u0159\u00ed je v\u0161ak osobit\u011b a s nefabrikovou p\u00e9\u010d\u00ed.<\/p>\n
U n\u00e1s sice m\u00e1me dokonce pivo s\u00a0n\u00e1zvem Kl\u00e1\u0161ter (z pivovaru v\u00a0Kl\u00e1\u0161teru-Hradi\u0161ti), \u017e\u00e1dn\u00fd kl\u00e1\u0161tern\u00ed pivovar v\u0161ak n\u00e1stup le\u017e\u00e1k\u016f nep\u0159e\u017eil a kl\u00e1\u0161tern\u00ed pivovarskou tradici tak je nyn\u00ed nutno obnovovat z nuly. Zkusili to nap\u0159\u00edklad v\u00a0\u017deliv\u011b, kde se v\u0161ak po nepoveden\u00fdch obchodech v\u00a0Kanad\u011b pivovar utopil v\u00a0dluz\u00edch aby posledn\u00ed dobou znovu za\u010dal d\u00fdchat. To jin\u00fd v\u00fdvoj m\u011blo obnoven\u00ed pivovarnictv\u00ed na Strahov\u011b. Pivovar sv. Norbert prosperuje velmi dob\u0159e, va\u0159\u00ed skv\u011bl\u00fd le\u017e\u00e1k, jantar, tmav\u00e9, p\u0161eni\u010dn\u00e9 a tak\u00e9 mnoho titul\u016f sez\u00f3nn\u00edch, t\u0159eba ka\u017edoro\u010dn\u00ed \u201ev\u00e1no\u010dku\u201c, kterou si chod\u00edv\u00e1m d\u00e1vat v\u017edy 18. prosince v\u00a018 hodin a 18 minut, nebo\u0165 to b\u00fdv\u00e1 obvykle osmn\u00e1ctka. V\u00fdborn\u00e9 je i m\u00edstn\u00ed ale, na \u017e\u00edze\u0148 to nejlep\u0161\u00ed.<\/p>\n
Jestli \u010dek\u00e1 \u010deskou kl\u00e1\u0161tern\u00ed pivn\u00ed tradici n\u011bjak\u00e1 renesance, t\u011b\u017eko \u0159\u00edci. Zalo\u017eit nov\u00fd mikropivovar nen\u00ed \u017e\u00e1dn\u00e1 legrace a udr\u017eet ho rentabiln\u00ed u\u017e v\u016fbec ne. Pivo ke kl\u00e1\u0161ter\u016fm v\u0161ak historicky pat\u0159\u00ed a pokud se tam alespo\u0148 n\u011bkde vr\u00e1t\u00ed, jist\u011b si vzpomene, \u017ee tam b\u00fdvalo doma. Pivo m\u00e1 toti\u017e moc dobou pam\u011b\u0165.<\/p>\n
Kdy\u017e se kdysi pivo vyr\u00e1b\u011blo v\u00a0otev\u0159en\u00fdch spilk\u00e1ch spont\u00e1nn\u00edm kva\u0161en\u00edm (jako dodnes piva typu lambic), z\u00e1le\u017eela jeho kvalita na tom, jak\u00e9 neviditeln\u00e9 kvasinkov\u00e9 spory zavane v\u00edtr ve spr\u00e1vnou chv\u00edli na to spr\u00e1vn\u00e9 m\u00edsto. Jednou to vy\u0161lo, jednou ne. A proto\u017ee pivovarn\u00edci d\u00e1vno v\u011bd\u011bli, \u017ee n\u00e1hody neexistuj\u00ed, za\u010dali se mezi sebou zdravit \u201edej B\u016fh \u0161t\u011bst\u00ed\u201c. A z\u016fstalo jim to dodnes. Proto se v\u00a0pivu nem\u016f\u017ee ukr\u00fdvat \u017e\u00e1dn\u00e1 \u010dertovina…<\/p>\n
Ladislav Jakl<\/strong><\/p>\n ps\u00e1no v\u00a0\u010dervnu 2012 pro \u010dasopis Te Deum <\/em><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":" O druh\u00e9m \u010dervnov\u00e9m v\u00edkendu prob\u011bhla za kr\u00e1sn\u00e9ho po\u010das\u00ed na unik\u00e1tn\u00edm m\u00edst\u011b v\u00a0zahrad\u00e1ch Pra\u017esk\u00e9ho hradu p\u0159ehl\u00eddka \u010desk\u00fdch mikropivovar\u016f z\u00a0rozhodn\u00fdm n\u00e1zvem \u201ePivo na Hrad!\u201c Se svou degusta\u010dn\u00ed sklenkou jsem tam hned v\u00a0prvn\u00edch minut\u00e1ch narazil na \u00fapln\u011b nov\u00e9 pivo \u00fapln\u011b nov\u00e9ho pivovaru, kter\u00fd v\u00a0posledn\u00edch m\u011bs\u00edc\u00edch vyrostl v\u00a0benediktinsk\u00e9m kl\u00e1\u0161te\u0159e na B\u0159evnov\u011b.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"ngg_post_thumbnail":0,"footnotes":""},"categories":[1],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-2476","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-publikovane-clanky"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.ladislavjakl.cz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2476","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.ladislavjakl.cz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.ladislavjakl.cz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.ladislavjakl.cz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.ladislavjakl.cz\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=2476"}],"version-history":[{"count":1,"href":"https:\/\/www.ladislavjakl.cz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2476\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":2477,"href":"https:\/\/www.ladislavjakl.cz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2476\/revisions\/2477"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.ladislavjakl.cz\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=2476"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.ladislavjakl.cz\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=2476"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.ladislavjakl.cz\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=2476"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}